I’ve called northwest Austin home for quite a few decades now, and I’m pretty sure I’ve been a “foodie” longer than the term has been around. Not surprisingly, I measure my quality of life by the standard and diversity of the places I get to eat.
We’ve always had world-class BBQ in Austin and been lucky to have excellent Tex-Mex and even fine interior Mexican food, but we’ve always been a bit lean on more exotic selections. That said, I’ve always been grateful for the one-offs. Great Italian restaurants here and there, terrific Dim Sum, and I loved sending French colleagues to Chez Nous. They were always reluctant, and their surprise at finding a lovely French meal away from home always put a smile on my face.
More recent years have brought world-class Sushi, Ramen powerhouses, and several other places catching the attention of Food and Wine Magazine. But, about a month ago I got a terrific surprise. A Wine Rep friend scheduled a dinner at one of her favorite restaurants, and it was in my neck of the woods. Though I’ve had middle eastern cuisine in Austin in the past, Troy’s Turkish-centric offerings were a tremendous change of pace.
The feature that prompted the visit was the restaurant’s $15.00 corkage fee. We were able to enjoy a great dinner and bring our own favorite wines.
Troy is a bit hard to locate at first. It’s tucked in the corner of a small strip center and partially hidden by a gas station. But once inside the cozy café, you’re greeted by bright red walls with whimsical artwork and a ceiling accented with Turkish lanterns. In the background, vintage French standards à la Pink Martini set the mood.
Chef Mehmet Nuri Davarci and his wife Güngor opened the neighborhood restaurant about seven years ago after emigrating from Turkey. They moved to Austin after their older son had come here to study English. He liked it and convinced his parents that Austin was a great place to get an education. Their younger son also made good on that by graduating from Anderson High School and attending the University of Texas.
As the kitchen is open to the dining room, you will see Chef Nuri hard at work every day, and often his wife is likely to greet you as you come in the door. The restaurant is casual and friendly, making it very popular in the neighborhood.
Both lunch and dinner menus feature Turkish specialties alongside “Greek” and Lebanese favorites. Interestingly the Ottoman roots of many similar dishes explains how they all seem to work together so well.
The excellent Greek salad and Tzatziki starters pair beautifully with the many Souvlaki dishes but complement the Grilled Lamb, Iskender Kebab, or Lamb Kavurma perfectly.
Lebanese dishes like hummus and babaganoush are right at home with the grilled meats or Turkish meatballs.
At our first dinner, we started with the Mezze Platter.’ It includes a bit of everything: Greek Tzatziki, Turkish Acuka (red pepper and walnut spread), Carrot Tarama (carrots, walnuts, yogurt), and excellent house-made Hummus and Babaganoush. (The platter came with warm triangles of pita bread which disappeared almost as fast as they were served.)
I followed the large spread with beautifully seasoned, grilled lamb chops (served with rice,) and I used much of the remaining mezze as a flavorful condiment.
We finished our meal with Pistachio baklava and strong Turkish coffee.
I’ve been back several times to explore a bit more of the menu. I particularly like the Lamb Kavurma, available at lunchtime. This dish is a sort of hash… chopped, slowed-cooked lamb with onions that melt into the meat. A bit of rice and salad make it a complete meal.
Next on the list will be Iskender Kebab, gyro-style meat with a spiced tomato sauce. In my brief interview with Chef Nuri, I saw him light up as he described the dish.
One item that Chef credits as his wife’s specialty is the Dolmas – I’m very familiar with the Greek version of rice stuffed grape leaves, but found Güngor’s Turkish version, delicate and savory and with a bit less sharpness than many I’ve had. Though meant to be shared, I don’t.
My most recent meal at Troy is a great way to try various menu items. The Troy Grill Mix includes Chicken Souvlaki, a generous skewer of Shrimp Souvlaki, a grilled Lamb Chop, and both Turkish and chicken meatballs. The platter is served with rice and steamed broccoli.
I am very fond of Lebanese wines and have brought some really excellent Chateau Musar to go with dinner on a few occasions. These wines are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Cinsault, grown from vines planted as far back as the 1930s.
The wines are complex and pair exceptionally well with lamb and many of the traditional sides.
(I’m advised that to fully appreciate the true Turkish experience I should bring a drink called Raki next time.)
At the end of your meal, if caffeine is not a problem, definitely indulge in Troy’s Turkish coffee. The little cups are brought under beautiful, chastened domes and though strong, drink far more smoothly than an average espresso.
Exploring Troy’s menu these last few weeks has been a real treat, so if you find yourself in a dinner rut, and even the best Osso Bucco, Carne Asada, Pho, or Nigiri just doesn’t seem to excite you, Troy might just be the cure.
Richard Arebalo
OTL Features Editor