Austin has always been a casual restaurant town. The city has a young demographic thanks to the University of Texas and, in general, a population that loves lake activities, participation sports, and live music. Outside of hotels, our most celebrated restaurants in the past have been in historic old houses in quaint (expensive) neighborhoods, and our new food powerhouses tend to be in more modern, eclectic spaces (in newly ….expensive neighborhoods.)
A friend’s birthday recently introduced me to a bit of a hybrid, a great old Austin building with amazing food in a modern yet very elegant dining room.
The Capital Grille is located in what some Austinites will remember as the old Spaghetti Warehouse at 4th and Colorado. Rare for Austin, the building was home to the Italian eatery for nearly forty years. Many will have hazy college memories of the large warehouse space that featured a trolly car in the center of the restaurant.
The handsome red brick building (circa 1905) is a designated historic landmark and has been home to The Capital Grille since 2014.
Interestingly several of the company’s 62 restaurants are located in historic venues as well. The original Capital Grille in Providence, Rhode Island, was located in the town’s imposing Union Station, which accommodated some 300 trains a day back in the 1920s.
There is a Capital Grille on Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington DC with views of the US Capitol, and the one in New York City is in the prestigious Chrysler Center. The satellites in Chicago and Seattle also feature unique downtown locations with colorful connections to the turn of the (last) century.
As you walk into the Austin restaurant, the total transformation of the old warehouse space is astounding. The feel is part private club, a little jazz age from the Art Deco light fixtures, and an expensive Texas home with some impressive game trophies here and there. The restaurant is wall to wall, fine wood paneling, lush carpets, and beautiful oil paintings.
Though perhaps not as grand as a train station or a legendary address, manager Jasmine Peterson explained that the Austin restaurant is purposely filled with Texas heritage. Many of the paintings are of influential Texas personalities ranging from Lorenzo de Zavala and Stephen F. Austin to President Lyndon Johnson, Governor Ann Richards, and US Representative Barbara Jordan. One of the three private dining rooms features a large portrait of Corpus Christi native Farrah Fawcett, and the main bar features impressive paintings of Coach Darrell Royal and ballplayer Willie Wells.
Far from stuffy, the classic décor is integrated with modern metal and glass details. For instance, an impressive glass wine cellar greets you at the entrance and is the backdrop for much of the main dining room.
On each of my visits, I’ve started at the beautiful bar just to the left of the entrance. The dark wood tones and sizable sporting and landscape paintings give the bar a classic New England feel, but the prominent portrait of Darrel Royal definitely tells you you’re in Texas.
Like much of the restaurant, the bar staff is genuinely friendly and sets the tone for the rest of the experience. The bartender happily crafted a cucumber mojito for me though it wasn’t on the menu. (…“we have cucumber in the kitchen… I can do that.”)
He followed later by introducing me to the Grille’s signature cocktail, the Stoli Doli, a house-infused, pineapple vodka martini served in a slender flute…. deceptively strong and seriously delicious. (Fans have posted the recipe/method online.)
I had the luck of being seated in the main dining room on my first visit. The large, attractive room has to be one of the prettiest in the city; well-spaced table, comfortable chairs, starched linens, and gleaming flatware. The servers wear smart, khaki jackets with just a slight military crispness to the look.
It could be a rookie move to order too many appetizers at a steakhouse, but given the terrific selection, you have to take the plunge. To date, my favorites have been the (light) lobster bisque with generous chunks of lobster, and the outstanding lobster and crab cakes. The latter was served with fantastic, fresh corn relish and a remoulade, definitely worth revisiting.
The fresh “Pink Moon” oysters, Prosciutto Wrapped Mozzarella sticks, and Burrata with Heirloom Tomatoes have also been stand-outs. The restaurant uses a 15-year-old balsamic vinegar on various dishes, and where used, it just makes them sing.
Though excellent seafood and chicken dishes are available (someday I may even try the lamb chops), The Capital Grille prides itself on their 18-24 day dry-aged steaks. The process slowly removes moisture in a very controlled way leaving a concentration of flavor and a softer texture than regular steaks. The choices range from small fillets to a large 22-ounce Bone-in Ribeye with occasional more enormous steaks as specials.
On Chef Ken Larsen’s recommendation, I ordered a porcini mushroom dusted, bone-in ribeye. The dark char happens to the mushroom coating, leaving a very moist steak with a deep flavor. (Incidentally, Chef isn’t particularly fond of mushrooms, but he loves what this method does for his steaks.) I’m glad I took his advice.
Like any good steakhouse, the sides can be the difference between a good meal and one you will tell about to everyone.
On our first outing, we loved the Au Gratin Potatoes enough to make sure we ordered them again. Table favorites have been the Soy Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and the Sautéed Spinach with garlic confit. All are usually found at high-end steakhouses, but they are particularly well done here.
Steakhouses are always great places for big red wines, and Covid disruptions notwithstanding, the Grille’s selection does run into hundreds of labels. Good options from dozens of Burgundy and California makers are available for seafood or lighter dishes. I did a superb Vaillons 1er Cru Chablis with the Oysters one night and a Louis Latour 1er Cru Beaune on the birthday night.
For serious red fans, nearly 77 big names are available from California with featured cases of Shafer, Caymus, and DAOU and some options from Hundred Acre, Bond, and Harlan for deeper pockets.
A fair selection of Bordeaux reds is available from Margaux, Pessac Leognan and Pomerol, plus a sampling of Côte-Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Rounding out the list are good choices from Spain, Italy, Australia / New Zealand, and Argentina.
As would be explained by another online recipe, The Capital Grille’s Cheesecake with a Brûlée style topping is simply incredible. Unlike other cheesecakes, the house version is on a base of crushed Nilla Wafers. The filling is a light, whipped blend of cream cheese and ricotta, and the top is torched sugar a la Crème Brûlée. The Classic Crème Brûlée and the (not dense as fudge) Flourless Chocolate Espresso Cake are also favorites.
For all its style, the Capital Grille Austin certainly follows up with substance.
My first experience was having been invited to a birthday dinner. As a good friend is having a birthday in November, I can think of no better reason to book one of the private dining rooms for the next time out.
This place could become a habit.
By Richard Arebalo
OTL Features Editor