About a year ago, I had the pleasure of staying at the beautiful Phoenician in Scottsdale, Arizona. The striking resort, nestled at the base of Camelback Mountain, has been a prestigious luxury getaway since it opened in 1988. The hotel debuted with over-the-top 80’s glamor; oceans of Italian marble, gold-etched ceilings with massive chandeliers, and a storied million-dollar mother-of-pearl swimming pool. Though hard to imagine today, gardeners were brought from the Island of Tonga to transform parts of the property into a Polynesian paradise. Despite the stunning Sonoran backdrop, some south-facing views could be mistaken for a luxury resort in Hawaii.
Though much renovation has happened in past decades, in the summer of 2016, The Phoenician began a comprehensive upgrade of the entire property. This included a redesign of its guestrooms and casitas, and in 2017-18 it encompassed all the public areas; the main lobby, its iconic pool complex, and various health and fitness facilities.
In March of 2018, The Phoenician Spa opened. The three-story, new construction facility includes large steam rooms, saunas, indoor vitality pools, and 24 treatment rooms. On the roof is another large swimming pool with chic cabanas, deck chairs, and sweeping views of the Phoenix valley and Camelback Mountain. A nail salon, Drybar, and boutique shop make the spa a popular destination unto itself.
My home for four relaxing days in December was the exclusive Canyon Suites at The Phoenician. The discrete property located northwest of the main hotel is impressively rated both Forbes Five Star and AAA Five Diamond. Opened in 2007 as a “resort within a resort,” The Canyon Suites is a collection of 60 (nearly all suites) deluxe guest accommodations. The 2016 master renovation included redesigning the rooms, the large entrance lobby (now featuring The Canyon Lounge), and upgrading much of the private pool area.
The route to The Canyon Suites is the same as for The Phoenician proper. The long driveway off Camelback Road follows beautiful fairways, tennis courts, an impressive Athletic Club, and the historic mud-brick Jokake Inn. (Fans of the movie “Raising Arizona” will recognize the structure as the home of the Arizona family in the show.) A sharp left winds up to the separate Canyon Suites guest lobby. A larger-than-life bronze of a native American graces the decidedly southwest feel of the elegant facility.
Arriving at the property begins a progression of sensory treats. The lobby has very high ceilings and a faint signature aroma called “Golden Bamboo.” A central fountain adds the pleasant sound of falling water as you are greeted warmly by Canyon Ambassadors at individual concierge-like desks (By the second day at the most, you are greeted by name.)
We were lucky enough to get an early check-in (a bit harder in high season) and were able to settle in quickly.
Just beyond the lobby, you’ll find The Canyon Lounge set up for complimentary breakfast service. Fresh coffee, juice, and an extensive buffet for every taste are laid out each morning. On various days, we were alternately treated to chicken chilaquiles, bacon frittatas, scrambled eggs and sausages, in addition to pastries, fresh fruit, bagels, and smoked salmon. I didn’t miss a single breakfast, and my boss is on a mission to get the recipe for their chilaquiles.
Indoor seating is a bit limited, but the gorgeous patio facing a jaw-dropping waterfall more than makes up for it. The immense water feature flows through boulders surrounded by native cacti and brilliant red bougainvillea. For added drama, what seems like the whole of Camelback Mountain looms just to the right of the scene. On cooler mornings, patio heaters keep the area warm, and the intense view and lovely sound of rushing water never gets old.
An essential aspect of any hotel’s comfort is its people. I learned from one of the managers that The Canyon Suites staff is purposely chosen from The Phoenician’s overall pool for its impeccable guest interaction. At breakfast, you’ll meet a very dapper gentleman named Buzz, who takes particular pride in the quality of breakfast fare. Karyn, Elenore, and Jan were there every morning, laying out the day’s selections, helping with seating, and providing guidance on the items.
I noticed that each person seemed very easy to engage in conversation. I felt I was already an old, favored regular on day one. Amazingly, this was not just professional courtesy; it was genuine charm.
The first thing to say is the rooms are enormous. If you’ve ever stayed at an upscale hotel in New York or San Francisco, you’ll know that a large sum of money per night can still buy you a very luxurious closet. The suites here are mostly 1,200 square feet. Mine included a dining room, a large living area with two sofas, a very serviceable desk (sadly, I had to work a bit,) a spacious master bedroom, and two bathrooms. The main bath had a large soaking tub, a separate shower, and an enclosed WC. Like my stay at The Phoenician casita accommodations a year before, the bathrooms are generously filled with thick fresh towels (changed daily) and fragrant Le Chemin by Byredo bath products. One unique perk at the Suites is the variety of complimentary custom bath salts available each evening.
A travel write-up after the renovation refers to The Canyon Suites as having a “residential ambiance.” If you added a Chef’s kitchen, I would be happy to call this home. Barring that, The Phoenician’s culinary team can keep you well-fed. In addition to eight dining venues, a very recent return following the pandemic is 24-hour room service.
A stay at The Canyon Suites comes with all the amenities The Phoenician resort offers. Like the last visit, we enjoyed a couple of excellent steaks at the premium J&G Steakhouse. Executive Chef Jacques Qualin always manages to make the steak experience just a cut above. I complimented the asparagus’s size and flavor, and the waiter noted that Chef is very focused on their quality, often rejecting shipments that “didn’t meet his standards.”
The Peekytoe Crab Cakes are in a league of their own – light texture, very pure crab flavor, and I think the lime-ginger dressing may be addictive.
There is a good selection of wine at several price points on the standard wine list. With our steaks the first evening, we enjoyed an earthy, perfectly aged 2003 Chateau Trotanoy. Deeper pockets here will buy you some of the best wines from the hotel’s curated collection. (Ask for the wine “master list.”)
New for us this visit was an ‘Afternoon Tea at The Phoenician’ hosted just off the main lobby. The light meal was in the traditional English style with a fine selection of teas, finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and preserves, and a splendid assortment of pastries.
In addition to the tea service, there are a few tempting “enhancements.” We opted for one with copious glasses of Ruinart Rosé Champagne, but the Royal Osetra Caviar option looked wonderful at a table nearby.
Visiting in December, the Tea Room is brilliantly decorated for Christmas, and pianist Lisa Pressman makes the afternoon perfect with classic standards and some beautiful Christmas carols.
We had some time before dinner, so we took a slow stroll back to our rooms. In the early evening, The Canyon Lounge is transformed into a comfortable fireside bar with a very talented bartender named Will. On different nights I got a terrific fresh apple-based cocktail and an excellent version of an Aviation.
After a spectacular dinner, we retreated to the large fire pit just beyond the swimming pool. Manager Kevin D. (well-versed in wine himself) led us down a winding path to just about the edge of the property. There, surrounded by comfortable outdoor couches and chairs, the large fire warmed us as we enjoyed an excellent Oregon Pinot Noir.
We had initially booked one of the large cabanas by the Canyon Pool for Saturday, but atypical cold and rainy weather kept us indoors. On most winter days, the serene desert-themed pool is an oasis with a spectacular view of Camelback Mountain. Its Canyon Grill also provides some well-made food options. Delicious burgers and fries came in handy one mid-afternoon.
Because of the weather, the amenities and size of my suite made me feel very much at home. One afternoon I stayed in and enjoyed a movie and snacks, the only thought being which additional spa treatments I could book later in the day.
Interestingly, the weather did not seem to deter some folks as I heard the occasional high ping of a well-hit golf ball. One reason many folks visit Scottsdale in the winter is the high number and high quality of golf courses. The Phoenician shines here as well. The resort features a prestigious 18-hole course designed by Architect Phil Smith, showcasing the unique beauty of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert.
The spa, as mentioned earlier, is an impressive separate facility built from the ground up in 2018. The high atrium features a modern Phoenix sculpture, and another in bas-relief fills the wall behind the welcome counter. The spa’s natural stone colors seem to soothe from the moment you walk in.
After check-in, you are escorted to separate changing facilities with individual lockers. Plush robes and comfortable footwear are available for lounging throughout the multi-storied building. You can arrive for sessions early and take advantage of the pools, showers, and saunas as needed. While some facilities are separate for men and women, couples’ massages are available.
The Forbes Five Star spa offers numerous services, including facials, scrubs, manicures, pedicures, and various types of massages and wraps. On my last two visits, I scheduled a Phoenix Rising (mineral) Scrub & Massage from Michael M. From the first Tibetan bell ring to the last removal of salts and oils, the deep relaxation had me lose track of time. I was euphoric and slightly lightheaded both times as I was escorted back to the common area.
My second treatment was a Gentleman’s Personal Remedy which deep cleaned and moisturized the face with various techniques. A common theme, even outside a specific ‘aroma therapy’ option, is the variety of scents used by the technicians. Unique mixtures of lavender, neroli, and many other botanicals have been calculated to truly relax.
While transit to and from the various facilities can be made via the ‘Valets’ small fleet of golf carts, The Canyon Suites offers a complimentary chauffeur-driven luxury car that can take guests within a specified range. Scottsdale Fashion Square Mall and Old Town Scottsdale are the most frequent requests.
On my last day, I appreciated the ability to do a late check-out as I had scheduled a later flight.
Thinking back – I have to say that with everything experienced in just four days, all the amenities and the wonderful people, The Canyon Suites pulled off one good trick…It felt as if I was leaving home instead of going home.
Richard Arebalo
OTL Features Editor